by Sarah Mischner
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Sylvain Lim. Photo: Elena Olivo |
Anyone who attended the Royal Ballet of Cambodia’s The Legend of Apsara Mera last week will
admit to being dazzled by the ornate costumes worn by the dancers. Friends of
BAM gathered in the Hillman Studio for an afternoon reception and discussion on
these costumes given by fashion and costume designer Sylvain Lim.
Lim, a native Cambodian who lived in Paris for more than 30
years and worked in fashion houses including Dior and Balmain, described the
history of the costumes and their construction—a process that has barely
changed since the 11th century.
Costumes in Cambodian ballet consist of pieces of raw silk
or velvet brocade, stitched with thick spring-like coils of golden threads,
metalwork, and sequins or beads to catch the light. It can take one person five
months to create one costume, or four people can make a single costume in a
month with three people doing the intricate embroidery. The costumer works up
to the moment a dancer goes onstage; the dancers are sewn into their costumes. (Those dancers playing male roles often can’t use the bathroom for up to 4 hours.) As Lim explained, the Royal Ballet dancers' costumes are stitched tightly to
their bodies, which helps them make the shapes of the deliberate choreography.
Another aspect of the costume is the headdress. From paper-mâché
masks to represent the giants of Cambodian legend, to the crowns and
headdresses for the gods and the princes and princesses, everything is gilded.
A dancer may wear a several-pound metal headdress, in addition to the pieces
sewn to her costume or her jewelry. When Lim was a young dancer, he practiced
moving with several bricks on his head to get the feel for moving with the
weight of a crown!
One of struggles that Sylvain Lim faces is how to preserve
these costumes and continue the tradition. Fewer people make the high quality
of materials needed for these costumes, so restoring these pieces is becoming
more difficult. With no real apprentice, there is a lingering question: who
will take up the costume design and maintenance after Lim? For now he is
satisfied to have played his role in revitalizing the costumes. As he
explained, the Cambodian people need their traditions and he is doing his part
to preserve them.
Friends of BAM are
avid BAM supporters whose contributions go towards funding innovative and
exciting art like the Royal Ballet of Cambodia’s recent presentation, and receive
invitations to members-only events like this conversation. For more information
visit BAM.org/Membership or call 718.636.4194.
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